Coffin House: Meeting at the ‘Grand Central Station of the Underground Railroad’
While researching a July trip to Indiana, we came across mention of an important safe house used by escaping African-American slaves in the mid-19th century.
A busy stop along the fabled Underground Railroad, the house and adjacent interpretive center are now a state historic site. Our Indiana trip would take us near the site’s location in the vicinity of Richmond, so we decided to visit what historians sometimes call “Grand Central Station of the Underground Railroad.”
During the early 1800s, a network of secret routes and safe houses, known as “stations” was established to assist slaves attempting to escape to free states and Canada.
The slaves referred to as “freedom seekers” were aided by sympathetic abolitionists.
Owners of homes where freedom seekers took refuge were “stationmasters” and individuals who helped move freedom seekers during the night were “conductors.”
Levi and Catharine Coffin served as two of the most important stationmasters in the Underground Railroad.
Born and raised as Quakers in the slave state of North Carolina, the couple moved to Newport (now Fountain City) in the free state of Indiana following their marriage.
While operating a successful dry goods business, the Coffins, along with other members of the Quaker community, established and operated an important way point that received a steady stream of freedom seekers.
The Coffins’ hometown was at the convergence of three escape routes from the South and an equal number of escape routes to the North.
The Underground Railroad network is believed to have assisted 100,000 freedom seekers between 1800 and 1865.
The Coffins alone are thought to have assisted more than 2,000 fleeing slaves, with Levi sometimes referred to as “President of the Underground Railroad.”
In 1847, the Coffins were asked to move to Cincinnati, Ohio, where they would operate a warehouse selling cotton goods and sugar not produced with slave labor.
The couple agreed to go for five years, but ended up staying for the rest of their lives.
During their years in Cincinnati, the Coffins continued helping freedom seekers and, following the Civil War, newly freed slaves.
Upon arrival at the historic site, we met site manager Joanna Hahn who offered a tour of the interpretive center.
The modern center houses numerous exhibits and offers an excellent 10-minute introductory film describing the Underground Railroad. Of particular interest is a discussion of the risk for those such as the Coffins who participated in hiding escaped slaves.
One exhibit tells the story of William Bush, a fugitive slave, who had himself shipped to Levi Coffin in a wooden crate.
Arriving alive but hungry, he remained in Newport, assisting the Coffins while working as a blacksmith. Today, his great-great-granddaughter, Eileen Baker, serves as a Coffin House tour guide.
Following an hour or so in the interpretive center, we headed next door to the home constructed in 1839 by the Coffins.
Joanna Hahn pointed out several unusual design features including five entrances and exits that would facilitate escape from the home.
A garret (small attic room) includes a tiny closet door easily concealed by a bed. It is thought as many as 14 freedom seekers were hidden in the closet space at one time.
Two additional unusual features are a basement with a kitchen and spring-fed well.
Freedom seekers moved during darkness and needed to be fed and cared for upon arrival.
Light during the middle of the night would be concealed with a basement kitchen, while an inside well made it unnecessary to carry pails from outside.
A large barn behind the house has a wagon with a hidden compartment where freedom seekers would hide during a journey between stations.
Many details about the Underground Railroad and the freedom seekers are unknown because it was so secretive.
Fortunately, in his later years, Levi Coffin authored a book, “Reminiscences of Levi Coffin,” based on his journals.
His hope was that proceeds from the book would provide for Catharine after his death.
Although Levi was a competent businessman, the couple used most of their financial resources to assist the freedom seekers.
Our time at the historic site and neighboring Richmond were both enjoyable and educational.
We especially enjoyed exploring Richmond’s Historic Depot District where one evening we overdosed on homemade ice cream. The nearby Model-T Museum alone was worth the trip. A tour of the Richmond Art Museum was an unexpected treat.
David and Kay Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot). Visit them at mypages.valdosta.edu/dlscott/Scott.html. View past columns at www.facebook.com/DavidKayScott. The Scotts live in Valdosta, Georgia.
Location: The Levi and Catharine Coffin State Historic Site is 10 miles north of Richmond in Fountain City, Ind.
Hours: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas and most Mondays. If you plan to visit on Tuesday through Friday in April or May, call ahead as the site may be busy with school groups.
Cost: Adult $10; Senior (60+) $8; Child (3-17) $5;
Additional Information: Phone (765) 847-1691 or visit www.indianamuseum.org/levi-and-catharine-coffin-state-historic-site.