TRAVEL COLUMN: Arkansas museum offers a piece of U.S. history, as told by purses

Last September we visited Arkansas for a canoe trip on the Buffalo National River, a visit to a Hot Springs bathhouse and a tour of Fort Smith National Historic Site. One of our most interesting discoveries during that trip – at least for one of us – was a Little Rock museum that offers a window into American history through the prism of purses and handbags.

It was yet another example of the unexpected pleasures encountered by travelers.

Purses have held a special place in my heart since I was a little girl. The first purse I remember owning was a small wooden box with a plastic handle. A design was painted on the front, and the box didn’t hold much more than a hankie, but it was all I needed as an 8-year-old.

I am now the owner of several purses — well, maybe more than several – all of which I use, at least occasionally. So I wouldn’t call myself a collector, at least compared with Anita Davis.

Anita, owner of Little Rock’s ESSE Purse Museum and Store, told me the fascinating story of her business.

Collecting purses was her primary interest for more than 30 years, though she casually mentioned an interest in collecting other things. I asked if shoes might be one of these. She smiled and nodded.

Until 10 years ago, her attic served as a storehouse for a collection of more than 2,000 purses. Deciding to share her treasure trove with the public, Anita hired two people to inventory the collection and help select several hundred that could illustrate a history of purses.

The exhibit was well received as it toured small history museums throughout the United States from 2006 through 2011. Its success led Anita to consider a permanent location for a display of a more extensive version of her collection.

In 2004, the budding entrepreneur began acquiring property in an area of Little Rock that had suffered decay and was sorely in need of revitalization. A community activist, Anita acquired and converted an empty lot into a garden, and she offered the public access. The garden is now used for special events such as the annual Arkansas Cornbread Festival, and each Sunday from April to November, a farmers’ market.

By the time the traveling exhibit returned to Little Rock, Anita had settled on a suitable building for the museum. It was built in 1946 – the year she was born.

Hoping to show visitors both purses that women carried, and what they carried, Anita knew some additional collecting was required. However, we’re talking about an experienced collector here. She shouldered the search for new exhibits as a challenge, rather than a burden.

The ESSE Purse Museum and Store opened in June 2013 with the theme “What’s Inside: A Century of Women and Handbags 1900 – 1999.”

The museum features 10 showcases, each representing a decade, with a sampling of purses, objects carried in purses and a picture or two of women carrying purses. Each showcase describes important events that occurred during the period.

Additional thematic displays focus on evening bags (“A Night on the Town”) and suitcases, bags and other travel accessories (“By Land, Sea, or Air.”)

It wasn’t until the museum opened, Anita said, that she realized what she had created – a museum of American women’s history.

As a fancier of purses, strolling through the museum and recognizing those similar to ones owned by my mother, grandmothers, aunts, sisters and, of course, myself, was a nostalgic journey. Seeing the purses brought back pleasant memories of shopping with my mother, going out on dates, and digging around for coins, lipstick and the key to our house.

The museum has temporary exhibits showcasing handbag designers and their work. The special exhibit on display when I visited was “The Art of the Handbag,” featuring designs by the visual artist Kent Stetson.

His paintings weren’t selling, so he decided to turn one into a handbag. It sold quickly in the shoe store where he worked, and the rest is history.

An our-long visit to Anita’s museum was certainly worth the $10 entry fee, and while I departed before making a purchase, the museum offers a website for those who leave empty handed. (www.essepursemuseum.com).

When I asked how she chose the name of her museum, Anita noted that “esse” is Latin for “to be.” She added, “A woman’s purse holds her identity and tells who she is.”

Now, I think it’s time to clean out mine and discard some things.

Kay Scott has been collecting purses and handbags since age 8. She and David Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot). Visit them at www.valdosta.edu/~dlscott/Scott

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